A Late Night Goodbye to the City of Light

In her memoir Paris, My Sweet: A Year in the City of Light, Amy Thomas wrote, “I guess it goes to show that you just never know where life will take you. You search for answers. You wonder what it all means. You stumble, and you soar. And, if you’re lucky, you make it to Paris for a while.”  I am feeling lucky indeed, but how does one say goodbye to this unique and amazing city?  This is a question I have pondered these last few days.

One way, of course, is you don’t actually say goodbye but rather just take a leave.  You leave some things on your to-do list undone so there is good reason to return.  You can see from what remains on my list that I have done exactly this.  What you can’t see is that I have a whole new list in my head of possibilities I was unaware of before this trip.  Through photos and momentos, you can preserve the trip and revisit the highlights to give the illusion of having never left.  Another way, thanks to a thoughtful Mother’s Day gift from my son and his family, is to hire a taxi with a driver that loves his Paris and take a late night tour of the City of Light.

We made a curcuit of the city, revisiting most of the places I have enjoyed spending time this past month.  When possible we stopped so I could get out and take photos.  As we drove, I shared with Tony the adventures Sheila and I had at each spot.  What a wonderful way to relive the joy, the laughter, and even the frustration.  My body was ready for the departure when I woke up yesterday morning:  now my heart and soul are ready as well.  I have said my goodbye even while nurturing the possibility of a return.

Sheila doesn’t see well at night which is why she did not accompany me on this late night adventure.  It’s a good thing, too, because she is not a night owl and I didn’t return until after midnight.  Once again I was reminded that Paris comes alive at night with people and traffic everywhere.  Not as busy as in the daytime, but far from quiet and deserted.  It is after three in the morning here and still just under eighty degrees.  But the day will start early, so I had best say goodnight.  I hope each and every one of you has enjoyed sharing this travel adventure with us.

Are We Having Fun Yet?

When we woke up this morning, our bodies were pretty much in full rebellion mode, not wanting to do much of anything.  I am never sure how much is physical and how much is psychological, but there comes a time in every trip when the body knows it is time to go home.  Fortunately, for me at least, this point usually coincides fairly closely with the planned departure date.  Knowing the forecast predicted temperatures in the nineties today certainly didn’t help either our physical or psychological outlooks.

We made one last trip to rue Cler early this morning to pick up some last minute gift items and then contented ourselves with spending the rest of the day packing, cleaning, doing a load of laundry, and playing cards.

So what do you think…are we having fun yet?  We have tried to do everything we can today so that tomorrow morning will be as relaxed as possible.

We will eat the last of our yogurt and fruit for breakfast, and then head to the airport when our transport arrives at 9:30.  Our flight doesn’t leave until 1:30 PM, but we want to allow plenty of time in case there are traffic issues.  We also remember from last time that the Paris airport can be  a rather disorganized place, not to mention it is quite large.  We will  need to connect with wheel chair transport, too,  which can take some additional time.

By late afternoon we were pretty well organized and feeling pretty darn good about it!  So we decided to end our stay in Paris where we started it…Bar du Central.  They know us pretty well now, so the service is friendlier and the food is still excellent.  We celebrated our successful adventure with drinks and a lovely dinner.  It is still very warm out but we are hoping to get a good night’s sleep.  The apartment stays reasonably cool even though there is no air conditioning.  The windows are large and can be fully opened; however, there is very little breeze coming through today.  We have two small fans as a last resort.

That’s our day and tomorrow we’ll be happily homeward bound!

Hidden Treasures

We had two destinations today, both very close to the #69 bus route.  The first was another of Paris’s green spaces, The Royal Palace Garden, just a block or two from the Louvre.  This one is a hidden gem, literally and figuratively.  We almost passed right by it, even with a map!  The trick, which many people (mostly Parisians) obviously know, is you have to enter through a building to get there.  From the street all you see are rather nondescript outer palace walls.

I wish we had arrived earlier when we could have enjoyed a less crowded version, but we needed the visit to fit the rest of our schedule for the day.  We arrived at lunch time and many people, including a class of school children, were eating their sack or picnic lunches.  And as you can see there were lots of other activities happening as well!

The first few images here are taken from the courtyard of the Louvre which we crossed when we got off the bus.  Then the hunt began and arriving was a pleasant surprise.  Yes, even Sheila and I enjoyed a little snack in the garden.  We were the beneficiaries of the left over chocolate mousse cups from the school outing.  When the class was finished, the teacher distributed what was left to people sitting on the nearby benches.  In case you think all we do here is eat, please remember someone is taking all the photos I have been posting, and they represent A LOT OF WALKING, but it’s hard to walk and snap photos at the same time…and NOT very interesting.

This photo is perhaps my favorite of the day.  I love how this sculpture, which is located in the courtyard of the palace leading into the garden, reflects and distorts the surrounding building.

We passed it on our way in, but neither of us noticed the reflections because we were busy looking for the hidden garden.  Feeling refreshed after sitting in the shade and watching people for a while, we headed back the way we had come in search of the Mariage Freres Tea Salon for our French Tea Treat.  We originally planned to return to a tea room in the Gallery Vivienne that we enjoyed so much last trip, but since this trip has been so much about new experiences, we decided to try some place different.  (See the Inner Child page for this and other treasures of the day.)

One thing we both did notice today was much bigger crowds of people.  Most of our day was spent in and near the Louvre which is a mjor attraction, but we have not seen crowds like this anywhere since we arrived in Paris.  It sort of makes one think perhaps it is time to be going home!

All Quiet on the Paris Front

This has been the quietest day the two of have spent together in Paris.  We started the morning with the short walk to the American Church where we experienced another   thought-provoking sermon and uplifting service.  An added special treat was a visiting choir from Rolling Hills Estates, California.  This 35-40 member choir  has been performing in several churches here and in Switzerland.  Their music is an interesting blend of traditional and modern hymns and featured two outstanding male soloists.  We thoroughly enjoyed the entire morning!

Afterwards, we walked to Le Bar Central for their delicious Sunday brunch and then back to the apartment.  Since then we have spent the day answering emails, showing each other the games we have on our iPads, and downloading some new solitaire games.  We did muster enough energy to get out the iron and ironing board long enough to each press a pair of slacks so we will have something clean and presentable to wear tomorrow.  Oh, and we hauled out the shopping bags once again to contemplate whether we can fit all of our acquired goodies into our suitcases.

We also spent a little time studying bus routes to the Carousel de Louvre where we are planning to have afternoon tea tomorrow at one of Paris’ four Mariage Freres Tea Salons and to Le Petit Palis, an art museum,  where we plan to explore the exhibits and have lunch on Tuesday.  Interestingly enough, we discovered it is just as hard (or maybe harder) to access places that are closer to home.  At the beginning of the month we might have headed out without a second thought, but we have learned the hard way to anticipate what isn’t always clear on the bus route maps…just because only one line shows on the map, it rarely means the bus runs both ways along the same street.  And sometimes the “block” between the streets can be very long.  Most of the bridges crossing the Seine are one way as well, and the distance between bridges is often SEVERAL  LONG  blocks.  These days every step counts and we think more carefully about what is doable.

And so you may ask:  Are we tired of Paris?…no.  Have we exhausted its possibilities?…not even close.  Will we be sorry to leave?…most definitely.  Have we run out of steam?…probably.  Are we glad to be heading home?…not exactly. Will we be happy to see family and friends?…absolutely!

Up to Sacre Coeur

Sheila thinks I am nearly ready to apply for an official position as a bus route planner.  Even I was impressed with my skill this morning.  We boarded #69 at 10:06 and by 11:45 we were sitting in a cafe near the top of a hill with the dome of Sacre Coeur Basilica in view.  Within this one hour forty minute time slot, we got off the bus at Pont Neuf, walked a long block to rue de Rivoli, boarded bus #67 for the trip to  Montmartre, waited for and then boarded the Monmartrobus for the ride to one edge of Place de Tertre, and walked up hill to within view of this grand structure.  No wrong-way walks, no back tracking, no hunting for the next stop…just bus to bus to bus…like clockwork except for the time spent waiting for the buses themselves.    Sacre Coeur is one of those sites  for which nothing quite prepares you.  Even having seen pictures,  I was surprised by the breath-taking beauty of this massive silhouette against the clear blue sky and by the awesome panaramic views of Paris at my feet.  Coming here was the last of my Paris MUST DO’S for this trip, and I am so happy that we chose such a gorgeous day to make this trip.

Today was much cooler than yesterday (only mid-70’s) so the entire day was pleasant.  Sheila remained outside enjoying the view while I joined the parade of tourists eager to see the interior of the church.  Taking photos inside the Basilica is not allowed I discovered, so I purchased a few postcards to capture a bit of its beauty.

I found the mosaic work quite appealing.  There was a route cordoned off that took viewers up one side across in front of the altar and down the other side, allowing us to view the small chapels and much of the artwork.  It was also possible to sit in contemplative silence with a view directly upwards into the central dome.  I wish I had thought to purchase a  card with that view which was amazing.

There is evidence that a Roman temple once occupied this hill.  In the middle ages, an abbey of Benedictine monks and nuns was located here.  A smaller church on the hill, the church of Saint Pierre de Monmartre, is one of Paris’ oldest, and there is a vineyard that produces the grapes for some of the world’s most expensive wines (at least that’s what our guide said).  The Basilica was built in the latter quarter of the nineteenth century, its dedication delayed by the outbreak of World War I.  When we were ready to leave, we boarded an open air “train” for the trip down the hill and then reconnected with our busses for an uneventful trip home.

I have arrived at the conclusion that there may need to be another trip to Paris in my future because I keep discovering places that look fascinating but that I do not have the time or energy to explore just now.  Monmartre is one of these areas. Once the center of the Impressionism art movement and then of a more Bohemian lifestyle for artists and writers, the area still has a very different feel from the other parts of Paris I have visited.  As Rick Steves puts it, “Prepare yourself for more seediness than you are used to in Paris.”  This is true, but Montmartre also has a positive energy and obvious creativity that tends to draw you in.  Like many areas of Paris, it would be best explored on foot.

NOTE:  see side bar for more photos, although my camera is being cantankerous again about letting me see all of the photos of the day.  See Nourishing the Body for a report on tonight’s dinner.

 

Once More Into The Marais

Given the forecast for 90 degree weather today, Sheila opted to stay closer to home where she could seek refuge in the coolness of the apartment.  I, on the other hand, am feeling the pressure to see as much as I have time and stamina for while I am here, so I headed out on my own…into The Marais once more.

Unlike in the States, stores here only have sales a couple times a year.  June is one of those times, and the signs are everywhere.  Fortunately,

there were not nearly as many shoppers today, so neither the buses nor the streets were as crowded as yesterday.  Perhaps the heat had something to do this as well, but what ever the reason, it made my day more enjoyable.

Many of the buildings in this area, once homes of the rich and powerful, have been repurposed as museums.  It seems there is some thing for every taste.  Once I got off the bus and headed toward the Carnavalet Museum, my route took me past rue de Rosiers, a main street for the Jewish community. This is the first place, other than at the airport, where I have seen armed guards.  These were stationed

outside a synogogue.  Everyone pretty much ignored them as they went about their usual routines.

I spent longer than planned at the Carnavalet Museum because, in addition to the regular history of Paris exhibits, they had a special

exhibition: Napoleon and Paris.  I had been wondering and asking Sheila about Napoleon and his relationship to the French Revolution, so figured this was my opportunity to learn more.  Unfortunately, only parts of the exhibit had English translations.  But, with the help of the one English language publication I found in the gift shop (a children’s picture book), I managed to get the gist of it.  Apparently Napoleon, already a general, was in other places during the actual revolutionary battles, but had the good sense to return to Paris and pick up the reigns of power during the chaotic years that followed.  As you can see, like so many buildings in Paris, this one is in the midst of renovation and repair.

The museum exhibits fill in two old houses which have been connected by a second floor gallery corridor.  It is organized into three parts:  before the Revolution, the Revolution, and after the Revolution.  I suspect the segment dealing with the actual revolutionary years may be the most popular with tourists as the portions outlining the history of these years appeared in both French and English.  Tastefully done, without much focus on the violent aspects, the intent here was to highlight the political changes that preceded and resulted from the upheaval.

After lunch on a busy square near the museum to rest my legs and rejuvenate myself, I was on the bus once again.  I returned the area where I visited G. Detou a few days ago to check out another shop that the staff at Le Foodist said would have the Macaron supplies I wanted in more reasonable quantities.  Success!  Then it was back on the bus once more (I am getting quite good at this) headed for rue Saint Dominique.  I chose to make my bus transfer at Hotel de Ville, essentially the City Hall for all of Paris.  As you can see, it is a rather impressive area.

While I prefer my photos without crowds and will wait a while to get the shot I want, the place was actually quite crowded.  I didn’t see anyone playing in the fountain, but got a kick out of the sun worshippers…it was extremely hot by this time.  This turned out to be a great transfer spot as it was a short walk between bus stops with lots to see along the way.

 

 

Back to the Marais

Today we headed into the heart of the area of Paris known as The Marais.  Just a few blocks from the Bastille column, this part of the city has a long, colorful history and contains more pre-revolutionary streets and buildings than any other.  Originally a marsh land, King Henri IV transformed this area in 1605 by building Place Royale, a royal residence surrounding a lovely park-like courtyard.  His hope was to attract France’s rich and powerful and his plan worked splendidly as many aristocratic houses sprang up, making this one of the most desireable parts of Paris.

After the decline of the nobility during the revolution, it became a working class neighborhood, the site of the September 4 Massacre, Paris’ Jewish quarter, and home to Victor Hugo who wrote Les Miserables and some of his other best known works here.  It was spared Napolean III’s wrecking ball and forced modernization under the direction of Baron Haussman by the outbreak of World War I.  During the 1930’s The Marais was a magnet for Jews fleeing Nazi Germany, 75,000 of whom were rounded up and sent to their deaths in the concentration camps.

During the 1960’s it became a mecca for hippies and the famous rock guitarist Jim Morrison died here.  In recent years it continues to be a destination for immigants, Jewish and Muslim, this time mostly from Algeria.  While it ia a vibrant neighborhood, some of the streets and businesses are barricaded as protection from terrorist attacks, and it is undergoing “gentrification” as high end shops and galleries are beginning to encroach on what has traditionally been a working class area of Paris.

The central park, known today as Place de Vosges, is a centerpiece of a lively neighborhood.  Like most of the city’s green spaces, this one is well used by the Parisians.  Today, for example, there were people lying in the grass enjoying the sun, many coupes of various ages, a soccer game underway, some school classes enjoying their lunces here, as well as tourists just passing through.

We also visited the home where Victor Hugo lived when working on some of his best known writings.  I know very little about this author other than that he wrote The Hunchback of Notre Dame and Les Miserables, which focuses on the period of the Commune in the mid-1800’s when the French were once again seeking a democratic way of life.  While Hugo himself was fairly well off, his social and political views made him unpopular with the rich and powerful.

Hugo Bust by Rodin

Children of the Poor

Souvenir of September 4

Above is a bust of Hugo cast by August Rodin.  The other photos are of artworks inspired by his writings, and it is fairly obvious why he was not embraced by the upper classes.  He also wrote plays which were publicly performed and which many thought made him dangerous.

Hugo was also an active politician, supporting a range of issues relating to social inequalities.  When Napolean III seized complete power in 1851, Hugo publicly called him a traitor to France and chose to leave France rather than live without his beloved Rebublic.  He could have returned safely from his self-imposed exile in 1859 under Napoleon III general amnesty, but chose instead to live abroad until the ruler’s death in 1870. He lived most of the remaining fifteen years of his life in Paris and was a “hero of the people.”  Upon his death, his body lay in state at the Arc de Triomphe before being buried with other famous Frenchmen in the Pantheon.  I suspect I will read more of his work, perhaps some poetry, after I return home.

This was it for today.  We had planned to stop for tea at the Mariage Freres Tea Salon at the Louvre, but were a bit confused as to its exact location and some sort of strike (by taxi drivers, perhaps) changed our bus route.  A helpful French woman on the bus helped us out both with the location of the tea room (which we will visit another day) and with information about the strike.  I plan to return to the Marais tomorrow to visit the Carnavalet Museum which chronicles the history of Paris and possibly to take a peek into Pere LaChaise Cemertery.

 

Taking Stock

With just one week remaining in our travel adventure, my body finally rebelled and insisted on a total down day.  It is important to understand, and I have to constantly remind myself, that what I have been calling my take-it-easy days here require way more walking than my legs are used to.  I think the lengthy time standing on the buses yesterday on top of so many days of walking tipped the scales and my poor knees screamed, “Enough already!”

Sheila took my turn doing this morning’s pastry run and then walked to rue Cler about midday for some fruit and a newspaper.  I took my own sweet time doing my morning puzzle and games, enjoying my morning coffee, and finally taking a shower and washing my hair around 1:00.  We are planning to go for dinner in the neighborhood later, but that will be it for today.
During my visit to the Montorguiel market street yesterday, I purchased a small bouquet for the  dining table and bought an hors d’oeuvre sampler tray at the fromagerie. With the addition of some left over pate and salami, some tomatoes and crackers we bought at the market last night, and the fruit Sheila picked up on rue Cler, we had the makings of a light but delicious lunch.

We both thoroughly enjoyed trying all the    different cheeses.  The    problem, of course, is we don’t know exactly what they are so we may not be able to purchase any more of the ones we especially  liked.  A couple were        distinctive in color or appearance but many look quite similar even though they have distinct tastes.

Given our decision to take it easy, today also seemed an appropriate time for taking stock of what we’ve done and what we still want to do while we are here.  We have two more outings planned: one to The Marais, an older part of Paris near the Bastille; one to Monmartre, once the center of the Impressionism Movement in Paris and still home to Sacre Coeur, one of the most beautiful churches in the city.  We are also planning a short visit to the Petit Palais, one of the smaller art museums with frequently changing special exhibits, and a visit to a tea room for lunch.  I also have three other must-do’s: a visit to the Carnavalet Museum (Paris history) in The Marais; a walk through Pere La Chaise Cemetery; a view of the city at night which I may combine with a last trip to the Louvre which will be open until 9:45 Friday night.

Today also seemed a good time to inventory our various purchases.  It is a challenge to keep track of the gifts for friends and family when purchases have been stored away at the end of each day.  It just wouldn’t do to get home and discover someone had been overlooked.

Then, of course, there is always the question of space and weight limits and whether we might need an additional carry-on-bag for the trip home.

A Baker’s Paradise

I was on my own again today, because Sheila is trying to ward off a cold and thought it best to conserve her energy.  So I headed out to an unnamed area of Paris (might be on the fringe of Le Marais) to explore a couple spots recommended by friends.  My first stop was G. Detou, a shop specilizing in baking supplies and other specialty foods. This shop was recommended by Charmaine’s daughter Lisa, the same friend who told me about Le Foodist.  I had hoped to find powdered food coloring and some flavorings for making macarons but came away empty handed.  They had the items I wanted, but the portion size was intended more for professional bakers, and the price was similarly sized.  I have sent an inquiry to Le Foodist and perhaps they can help me out as the sizes of these ingredients we used in class were smaller and probably more affordable.  But it was a fascinating shop for browsing as you can see.

Sanding Sugar and Liqueurs

Preserved Rose Petals

Flavored Oils and Tapenade

Dried Fruits

Preserved Violet Petals

Chips of Chocalate from Around the World

Technically, I didn’t come away totally empty handed…did I mention G. Detou also stocks chocolate? Just a block or two from this shop is another of Paris’ permanent market streets, rue Montorgueil.  This is a favorite street suggested by a good friend and I was not disappointed.  Like rue Cler in our neighborhood, it has its produce markets, pattisseries, boulangeries, fish shops, butcher shops, restaurants and so forth, but it seems to have a bit more variety and charm.

The Entrance Gate

A Restaurant, of course

A Stationary Shop

A Fruit Shop

A View Down Rue Montorguiel

A Pattisserie

Rue Montoeguiel is about twice the length of rue Cler and has two extra special shops. A Mariage Freres Tea Emporium (founded 1854):

The Store Front

Each Canister Lining the Wall Hold a Different Tea

Tea Ware from a Variety of Makers

Colored Teas: black, white, green, red, blue, golden

Tea Bags and Small Tea Canisters

Metal Chinese Tea Pots

My friend and neighbor Adria, who organized the tea group I enjoy so much, introduced me to this tea company.  She has talked about this shop and has served us their teas, so it was a delight to experience the wonder for myself. A Flagship Store for A La Mere de Famille, a chocolatier and confectioner shop (founded in 1761): 

One day this spring, my neighbor Andrea called to see if I was home because she had something she wanted to drop off for my trip to Paris.  When her husband rang the doorbell a short while later, he handed me a package that turned out to be a beautifully deisgned book about this shop and has many of the recipes that have been in use here since before the United States even existed!  I am not sure if I will make it to the original shop, but this one is much bigger than the outlet on rue Cler.  And I can attest from personal experience that their products are quite delicious.

Both shops were staffed with extremely knowledgable and helpful employees (which by the way, seems to be the norm in shops here) and I had a good time purchasing a few items, some for me and some for gifts.  Then it was time to make the trek back to our apartment.

And this brings me to the buses.  I am becoming quite proficient at mapping our routes, but one never knows exactly how the trip will be.  You have heard, no doubt, of sea legs and land legs…in Paris, you had best bring your bus legs, because there are times of the day and certain routes where you may find yourself standing most of the way.  The first rule is to find a place where you can be well anchored.  Then plant your feet a couple feet apart, knees slightly bent, and be prepared to shift your weight with the flow of the bus.  Also be sure to position yourself where you can see the reader board or a route map because you most likely will not be able to understand the announced stops.

The trip home today involved one transfer from bus #29 to bus #69.  From the first bus stop (at 4:30) to our front door (6:17) took me just over one and three quarter hours.  I was standing the first half of the trip and heaved a huge sigh of relief when we passed through the courtyard of the Louvre without being told to get off.  My legs were tired, my knee hurting a little, and I was really glad to be home.

Rainy Day in Paris

Umbrellas Sprouting Up

When the weather forecast predicts 80% chance of rain, even shrink-resistant Oregonians take note.  So what did we plan for today… laundry, apartment cleaning, and a shopping trip to Le Bon Marche, a store that opened in Paris more than 160 years ago and is considered by most to be the oldest department store in the world. But More about this in a minute…

Paris Cafe on a Rainy Day

We have been taking turns switching between sleeping in the bedroom and sleeping on the hide-a-bed in the living room every other week. This necessitates a change of sheets which we have normally done on Sunday. Given the weather, we figured we would wait until today and then do the cleaning while the machine worked its magic. The machine is small so it takes two loads and then we carry the sheets around the corner and dry them at the laundramat. The machine does have a dry cycle but it takes forever.

The big challenge of the morning was figuring out how to operate the vacuum cleaner which had no apparent switch or on/off button.  It only took two of us (both with advanced college degrees) half an hour, a hunt through all the appliance manuals stored in the cupboard, and a call to our rental representative to solve the mystery.  And, of course, it was simple…just set the canister flat on the floor and step on it!

Le Grande Epicurie…All Things Food and Home

Fashion for Everyone

And a Covered Sky Bridge to Connect the Best of Both Worlds

No It’s NOT a Sidewalk Cafe

And now back to our shopping expedition. Growing up in Yakima, in the pre-Nordstrom’s days, Bon Marche was THE place to shop. I am sure it took its name from this Paris landmark, but it paled by comparison. As you can see the original occupies not one, but two city blocks and has at least five floors.  Since it was now nearly 2:00, we found our way to one of the store’s several eating areas where we enjoyed a very satisfying lunch (see Nourishing the Body). Afterwards, we crossed the sky bridge to check out the fashion scene.  (See gallery at right)  As you can tell, I found the building itself as interesting as its inventory.

We ended our shopping trip where we had entered, in the Grand Epicurie.  This strategy not only allowed us to select a few goodies for meals at home, but also made it easier for us to find our way back to the bus stop.  Still raining, but we didn’t have to wait long.  Once again we rode to the Bastille stop where we could change to bus #69 for the trip home.  Unfortunately, trusty #69 failed us again.  This time we were made to disembark ( we have no idea why) in the middle of the Louvre courtyard…in the rain with full gutters and no covered stop…to wait for the next bus.  Trusting to providence, we eventually secured an available cab (no easy task on a rainy day in Paris) for the remainder of our journey.  The driver kept us entertained, and a wee bit nervous, with his constant gestures and ranting at the traffic and, perhaps, at the world in general.